Casting and Creating Modeling Work With EnvironMolds, LLC

Sodium silicate – or water glass as it is popularly known – is easily available on the EnvironMolds website. It is offered as an aqueous solution that is relatively odorless. Other benefits of this inorganic mix are that it is resistant to moisture, fire and even high temperatures.

Given that the primary contents of water glass are sand and alkali, the solution is largely nontoxic and also does not harm the environment in any manner.

EnvironMolds provides sodium silicate solution for sale in a 1 pint bottle with options of buying 1 gallon and 5 gallon containers too. The price remains reasonably low and cost-effective in keeping with the general price policy of the accomplished art supplier.

The bottle recommends that the product should be used within a year after the date of manufacture. However, it has been repeatedly proved that unopened and properly stored containers retain an almost unlimited shelf life!

So, always seal your sodium silicate containers properly and store them in a cool, dry and

Do not allow the sodium silicate solution to freeze either. On the off-chance that this happens, you can try thawing it with indirect heat before mixing properly again.

It is always advisable to wear splash-proof goggles, rubber gloves, boots and coveralls while using water glass as it may irritate or burn the skin and eyes on contact.

Making a mold with clay, ceramic, rubber or polyurethanes seems quite simple. All you have to do is capture the shape of the model you wish to replicate with the mold making material of your choice.

However, a lot of finer points also enter the picture. I too realized the technicalities involved only when I actually got down to the task of making a mold. I was trying to reproduce a beautiful statuette and this opened the door to learning how to make a two-part mold!

That was not all. While making the first part of the mold, it dawned on me that I should be able to join the two parts of polyurethane molds together too. I started reading up about mold keys and carefully watched a demo video before using acorn nuts for the task. I carefully placed them all along the perimeter of the first mold part. I now knew that once the other part was done, the protrusions and indentations would help me to properly patch up both the parts in the right place.

As I was getting ready to make the cast, an experienced artist happened to point out that air could easily get trapped inside my closed mold creating unsightly gaps in the finished cast. I was flabbergasted once again until he explained to be that I should make small sprue holes along the surface of the mold to allow the air to escape.

I was finally able to make a decent reproduction of the statuette and I know it’s no cut-and-dried job at all!

EnvironMolds has emerged as a leading supplier of mold making and casting materials, tools, name plates engraved and other accessories. Apart from equipping both novice and experienced artists with anything and everything they need to bring their vision to life, Ed McCormick tries to assist them every step of the way.

The company even provides access to instructional books, videos and live workshops that prove to be very helpful. This is supplemented by the storehouse of information available on the website Artmolds.com.

There are helpful links to almost anything you want to know, from mold making basics to life casting technicalities to even material safety information. Even a casual visitor to the website can quickly glean various useful tidbits such as the fact that silicone rubber does not stick to anything but itself, and therefore does not usually require a release agent. Or the reality that liquid latex rubber should not be inhaled deeply as it has a good amount alcohol mixed in it!

Just by looking carefully, you can understand the role of fibers and fillers in mold making and casting as well as the difference between polyurethane resin and its polyester counterpart. Clicking on the particular links will also help you to learn different things from how to make a life cast to even doll reborning.

There’s all this and much more in store! Go check it out!

When it comes to polyurethanes, we mostly think of rubber formulas that are widely preferred for their superior physical and performance properties. They are known to capture minor details and undercuts well, making their resin counterparts pale in comparison.

However, polyurethane resins cannot be left behind for long. What works in favor of the resin formulas is that they are very easy to use and have a wide variety of setting times – from very fast – to slow. You are saved from the carcinogenic producing smells of polyester resins too!

Available in both opaque and water-clear with non-yellowing, UV inhibitors varieties, these resins are especially favored for cold casting artworks to reproduce a realistic look of metals, stone or wood. Apart from this, they can be effortlessly used to cast figurines, displays, rapid prototypes, special effects and sculpture reproductions.

Take EnvironMolds Casting Resin for instance. This polyurethane is a pourable two-part resin that is used to make castings from both rigid and flexible molds.

The curative and prepolymer have to be measured and mixed together in equal quantities. The casting system cures quickly at room temperature to form anivory-colored, lightweight, hard plastic. Therefore, mix only as much as you can pour within its 2 minute pot life!

Just like polyurethane rubbers, this resin also needs to be de-gassed prior to use to avoid air bubbles. Using an appropriate release agent is also imperative. After a few hours, you can drill, grind, sand or paint it as required!

Liquid latex rubber is a popular art material that is used for making latex mask as well as creating other theatrical effects such as wrinkles, scars and gashes for film, television and stage. The cheap price coupled it qualities of toughness and durability make latex rubber a commonly used material in the world of art.

However, regular latex rubber proves to be quite viscous. Fillers or extenders are required to control the flexibility or rigidity in the rubber latex castings.

EnvironMolds offers ‘RubRfil Latex Mold Rubber Filler and Extender’ expressly for this purpose. All you have to do is mix requisite quantity of RubRfil with the liquid latex rubber. This will thicken the mix and also extend the material so that you need to use less quantity of latex rubber.

RubRfill works by subtly altering the form and function of the latex. Varying the amount of this extender and hardener enables you to easily control the amount of hardness and flexibility as desired.

For beginners, the following recommended combinations will prove handy:

•    Very flexible - 1 part liquid latex rubber  to 0.5 part RubRfil

•    Flexible - 1 part liquid latex rubber  to 1 part RubRfil

•    Medium flexible - 1 part liquid latex rubber  to 1.5 parts RubRfil

•    Very hard - 1 part liquid latex rubber  to 2.5 parts RubRfil

You can work your way through these suggested ratios to get the kind of flexibility or hardness you require.

Enlarging a mold or cast is an easy and enjoyable process. Specially formulated polyurethanes and other compounds are available that allow for scaled expansion of a model.

However, shrinking a cast is a different ballgame altogether. You may consider using materials like alginate, wax or latex rubber that shrink during curing. However, the shrinkage is not proportionate and you will only end up with a deformed version of the original.

What you desire is uniform and balanced reduction with the details staying proportionate to the reduced size!

This is still possible by using special solvents. For this purpose, the original mold should be resistant to solvents or coated with a solvent resistant spray to protect it from the harsh effects of the excess solvent. Blend the silicone rubber with the solvent to get a thin mix. This will be flowy and take considerable time to cure. Once semi-done, demold quickly and leave it to dry.

The solvent evaporates to gradually shrink the cast in a proportionate manner all over. While the level of shrinkage depends on the amount of solvent added, it generally takes 3 days for the cast to reduce to 85% of the original. Leaving it for 7 days will further shrink the size to about 80%. You can make successive casts to get further shrinkage.

Some artists substitute the solvent with odorless mineral spirits that again tend to evaporate, leading to proportionate shrinkage.

Similarly, some water based urethanes are also available that successfully reduce the size of a cast to scale.

Mold making and casting knows no boundaries. Even sand particles can be bonded with sodium silicate to make sand molds that are later used for making metal castings. This compound is made by mixing sodium carbonate and silicon dioxide.

And if you are thinking about where to source this sodium silicate or water glass, it is available on the EnvironMolds website. ArtMolds Sodium Silicate is available as an aqueous solution in 1 pint, 1 gallon and 5 gallon bottles. This additive is multi-purpose and can be used for several other applications too. Such as:

•    It is commonly used by artists to create an instant antique patina on ceramics and pots. The antique finish coating looks natural and believable.

•    It can be used as an economical deflocculant for clay. As the compound thins the clay, slips can be made with minimum water content. However, you have to be careful about the proportion as after a point water glass starts flocculating the same clay!

•    It works as a high temperature adhesive. A thin layer can dry to effectively bond different materials like metals, paper, plaster, ceramics, glass, fiberglass and even refractory materials.

•    The excellent sealing and bonding properties work very well for concrete, plaster and gypsum surfaces. The chemical reacts with the concrete to form a permanent bond. This makes the surface stronger, denser, wearable and water resistant too. The same function can be applied for sealing plaster molds and casts very effectively.

containers to vibrating tables, vacuum pumps and chambers. There are different types of mounts and even

Liquid latex rubber is regularly used for making latex mask as well as creating special effects such as wrinkles and scars. While liquid latex is quite easy to use and lasts long, any regular user will vouch for the fact that the rubber has a distinctive smell, especially when a fresh box is opened.

Liquid latex does bear the characteristic smell of alcohol which is primarily due to its ammonia content. A tiny amount of ammonia is added to liquid latex rubber to increase its shelf life as well as to control its pH level. These ammonia fumes escape when a box is opened and should not be deeply inhaled. In fact, too much of sniffing can burn the nose, throat and even the respiratory tract.

This is why liquid latex should be used to make a latex mask in a well-ventilated area. Those who are especially sensitive to the smell should use a face mask. The good news is that the smell disappears as the liquid latex dries!

Similarly, the ammonia fumes can also irritate the eyes and skin at times. Therefore, it is advisable to air the liquid latex for some time before applying it on the skin or face for special effects. 

In sum, proper handling and use is essential for liquid latex just like any other product. Use it with care to get best results always!

While wax or clay modeling materials are used as it is, most other mold making and casting materials feature two components – generally a base and a catalyst - which have to be mixed together before use. Some materials need to be mixed with water (like plaster or alginate). In either case, you have to follow the prescribed mix ratio (can be by weight or volume) to the letter, to get the proper consistency, curing and finish.

In clay modeling making an accurate mix in the specified ratio is not the only thing that is important. The two parts that are being combined also need to be mixed thoroughly to get the desired effects. In fact, many a times the two different components are of different colors and can cause an undesirable marbled effect if not mixed properly. In some cases, it can also turn out lumpy and quite unusable.

Careful and comprehensive mixing alone will ensure a uniform color and consistency throughout. Following are a few tips on the same:

•    Large volumes often end up inadequately mixed and quite ineffectual. This is why professional artists often prefer to mix small quantities of their mold making and casting materials at a time.

•    Use a firm grip and a steady hand to mix in circular motions.

•    Keep scraping the sides and bottom of the container you are mixing in so that nothing remains settled anywhere. To avoid this, many artists even pour the mixture into another container and mix again.

•    Always over mix rather than under mix!

Life casting models often get put off by hair tangles and painful tugs during demolding. No matter how much baby oil or even petroleum jelly the artist slathers on the model’s head and body, the latter’s hair still ends up getting entrapped in the body mold. In fact, life casting artists often complain that their models refuse to repeat the experience and do not come back for further assignments. 

Clay modeling or resin casting is easier as it does not involve the live human body, but life casting requires careful preparation with an effective release agent. EnvironMolds offers an excellent product called MoldEZ Hair and Mold Release. This is water soluble and washes off easily at one go without tangling the hair at all!

It’s easy to apply MoldEZ – work generous amounts into the hair on the head, underarms or pubic area right from the root to the tips before combing them into place. You can also apply this water-based release cream on all fine body hair. The mold will come off easily from the body without pulling on the hair unnecessarily. MoldEZ is made completely from natural ingredients, is safe for the skin and can be washed out very easily with water.

Apart from this, MoldEZ also comes in handy as an adhesive for binding the alginate mold to the mother mold. Apply it generously all over the separated area. You can also use it to fill any pin holes in the alginate molds prior to casting.

Life casting artists are generally familiar with the tricks of their trade. They have honed their skills to perfection – from making a mold, demolding and casting to also finishing the final sculpture so that it’s ready to display in all its magnificence.

However, life casting requires an artist to work with a living and breathing model, and alas, many people falter in this aspect. The problem gets compounded as both the quality of your model and his or her cooperation is vital for the success of your life casting project.

Therefore, finding and hiring the right model (and offering proper compensation) is half the battle won. There are various sources for locating models that do not have any inhibitions against life casting. At this stage, remember to protect your interests with an appropriate model release form.

Now comes the task of preparing the model for what lies ahead. New models need to be carefully informed about the life casting procedures and applications. Even experienced ones need to get familiar with your techniques and requirements.

Discuss the pose you have in mind and try it out to ensure that the model is comfortable. There is no harm in trying out different postures before settling on one where the model feels most relaxed. Always remember that the quality of your final life cast completely depends on how comfortable the model feels when you are making a mold!

It’s a fact that silicone and latex casts are difficult to paint on. If you stick to clay modeling, painting and finishing is easy. But when it comes to silicone rubbers, regular acrylic or oil based paints will not adhere well and they may end up chipped or cracked when painted on latex surfaces.

EnvironMolds supplies a range of specially formulated latex and silicone paints, dyes, pigments and solvents that are suitable for coloring intrinsically or painting the surface.

For example, if you have made a silicone cast and need to paint on it, EnvironMolds provides 10 different colors like red, blue, yellow, black white, purple and even Quinn Blush for perfect skin effects. Only such silicone based paints will stick to silicone surfaces.

It is best to mix the silicone paint and silicone medium on a disposable paper plate as the paint will stick to most surfaces when dry. Also be careful about how much quantity you mix. Silicone paints dry very quickly, giving you very little time to finish painting. If the paint begins to set, it will not adhere properly to the silicone surface and can cause a blotchy effect. This is known as ‘cold gap’.
Therefore, you have to be very careful and mix only tiny amounts of a single color at a time. Use it quickly before it begins to dry (can be within a minute at times). Regular practice will give you an idea of the setting times too.